ACID PERMS AND THEIR EFFECT ON CURLY HAIR?
Understanding
Acid and Alkaline
Perms and Relaxers
by Dr. Willie Morrow
Professionals and those who study cosmetology acknowledge the chemical fact
that there are two basic relaxer systems that relax the hair. One is
thyioglycolic acid and the other is the alkaline hydroxide strengtheners, such
as sodium, calcium, potassium and lithium.
However, we declare that there is no difference in the chemical make-up of
curly and straight hair.
Acid perms have been successful in treating in straight hair, but have not
been successful in treating curly hair. If one observes manufacture's directions
and apply a permanent wave to straight hair they will no experience any hair
loss whatsoever. The only thing they will experience is some dryness to the
hair. Compare that now to curly hair.
Curly haired individuals can permanent wave their hair, however, processing
time is three times as long and the destructions is three times as damaging.
Acid Destruction Time Table
Curly hair begins to dehydrate and deteriorate after acid perms have been
applied and left on for 30 minutes; 20 minutes, if hair is placed under a hot
dryer. Once these acid perms have been left on the hair for an hour, the hair is
robbed of any moisture and becomes dehydrated and brittle. That is why
activators and moisturizers have been associated with acid perming curly hair.
Acid perm formulas consist of thyioglycolic acid at 10% and ammonium
hydroxides between 3-4% for straight hair; for curly hair, 12-14% of
thyioglycolic acid and 3-4% of ammonium hydroxide.
The acid perms are on the acid side of the pH meter from 0-6. These acid and
alkaline based chemicals affect the entire hair strand through and through.